Carbonara

Pancetta, egg yolk, Pecorino Romano and Parmesan. The sauce is the egg and the cheese, loosened with a little cream — nothing out of a bottle.

Because it is finished in the pan against pasta that came out of the extruder this morning, it reaches the table glossy rather than scrambled. Cooked when you order it, never held.

£11.50 at the counter. X-Large portion +£2. Spaghetti or bigoli suit it best. 123 City Road, by the Old Street roundabout.