Aglio Olio Peperoncino

Garlic and chilli in olive oil, with parsley and cherry tomatoes. There is nowhere to hide in this one, which is why it is only worth eating on pasta made the same day.

Ours is extruded on site each morning — semolina and water, nothing else — and dropped into boiling water when you order. Vegan as served; Parmesan comes on the side if you want it.

£8.50 at the counter. X-Large portion +£2. Gluten-free penne available, cooked in separate water. 123 City Road, London EC1V 1JB.