Arrabbiata

Tomato, chilli, garlic, parsley and olive oil, cooked hot enough to bite back. Straightforward, and vegan as it leaves the pan — Parmesan is served on the side, so it is yours to add or leave.

The pasta is extruded on the premises every morning from semolina and water. No additives, no preservatives, nothing frozen, nothing sitting under a lamp. Six shapes to pick from, including gluten-free penne, cooked in separate water.

£8.50 at the counter. X-Large portion +£2. A short walk from Old Street station.