Salsiccia

Fresh Italian pork sausage, broken up and cooked down into a ragù with tomato, garlic and parsley. Savoury and coarse rather than sweet — the sausage does the work and the tomato carries it.

The pasta underneath was extruded here this morning from semolina and water. Nothing is frozen and nothing is reheated: your plate is cooked when you order it. Choose penne, rigatoni, spaghetti, fusilli, bigoli or fettuccine at the counter.

£10.90 at the counter. X-Large portion +£2. 123 City Road, London EC1V 1JB, by the Old Street roundabout.